Quotes

Surfer’s Point, Ventura, CA Late Fall, 2014 Photo by Matt Wyatt website “Your local break often turns out to be your favorite break. No matter where you go, you remember those two or three days when your local break is as… (READ MORE)

This quote from another master surfer/shaper helps me get through the “dry spells”…like today. Lopez was asked how he manages to live in Bend, OR, so far from the ocean and surfing. ‘There are always moments in surfing that hold… (READ MORE)

“Waves can’t be the god of the sport; if they were, we would all live in Hawaii.  It has got to be getting out in it that counts — surfing because you love to surf, and getting pumped full of… (READ MORE)