It’s been more than a year since we’ve had a run of swell like this. Its been pretty much HH or better since Thanksgiving. And, it looks like the WNW swells will continue through Xmas Day! Today was pretty much as good as it gets. Mild offshore breeze, waves 6′-8′, glassy, well-shaped and relatively uncrowded. With waves peeling 150 yds or more down the point, the long paddle back up the point after each wave took its toll, and I was completely done after 2hr.
I surfed my 9-8 Nova with a 2+1 setup and scored some great waves. The Nova is the perfect longboard for these type of conditions. Its quick rail-to-rail, with a short turn-radius and plenty of speed. The dimensions of my Nova are 9-8 x 23″ x 3-1/8″ giving this 190lb “Grandpa” all the float he needs, without sacrificing performance. Younger/lighter surfers will find something suitable in the 9-0 to 9-6 range. Call/text/email me to chat about your new Nova.